Oven, Range, Cooktop & Range Hood Repair in Tacoma, WA

Uneven baking usually means either the lower bake element or upper broil element has failed, or that the temperature sensor is giving inaccurate readings to the control board. We test both elements and the sensor to pinpoint the exact failure.

Continuous clicking happens when the spark igniter detects moisture, food grease, or a misaligned burner cap, or when the spark module switch is shorted. Cleaning the igniter tip or replacing the spark switch stops the clicking.

Self-cleaning heats the oven above 800°F and locks the door with a motorized latch. If the high-limit thermal fuse trips or the lock motor jams, the door stays locked. We test the thermal fuse and lock motor to safely release the latch.

An electric heating element sparks or breaks when the outer sheath degrades over time and short-circuits to the cabinet chassis. We replace burnt elements and test board relays.

Slow gas ignition is caused by a weak silicon carbide igniter coil. As igniters age, they draw insufficient amperage to open the safety gas valve. Replacing the igniter restores normal preheat times.

Yes. Our technicians service dual-fuel ranges, high-BTU gas burners, and induction glass cooktops, including induction power inverter boards and cooling fans.

These error codes indicate runaway cavity temperatures, stuck touch panel keys, or open temperature thermistor circuits. We run the diagnostic mode on the control and test the specific board or sensor before replacing it.

Range hood issues usually trace back to a burnt blower motor, shorted speed selector switch, or blown transformer on high-volume exhaust hoods.

No. If you smell gas for more than a second or two after a burner lights, do not operate switches, appliances or anything that could spark. Leave the home, then call Puget Sound Energy's gas emergency line (1-888-225-5773) or 911 from outside. A brief whiff at the moment of ignition can be normal; a lingering odor is not. Once the utility has checked the supply and cleared the line, call us to repair the leaking valve, delayed igniter or burner that caused it.

Repair costs depend on the appliance type (gas, electric, induction) and the part needed. Igniters, elements, temperature sensors and spark modules are routine, moderately priced repairs; control boards, induction inverters and door-lock assemblies sit at the high end. You get an itemized written quote after diagnosis, and the diagnostic fee is credited toward the approved repair.

Gas ranges typically last 15 to 17 years and electric ranges 13 to 15. Igniters, elements, temperature sensors, spark modules and door gaskets are repairable at almost any age. The main reason to replace is an obsolete control board that is no longer manufactured.

If the code relates to a temperature sensor or runaway heat (for example F10 on many Frigidaire models or F2 on many GE models), stop using the oven until it is checked, because the control may not be able to regulate heat. Codes for a stuck key or door lock are less urgent but should still be diagnosed. If you ever smell gas, leave the home and call Puget Sound Energy or 911 from outside before anything else.